A: This looks like the dreaded Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) which is transmitted by a small insect vector called thrips. The virus is transmitted to the fruit by the thrips piercing into the leaf and removing the plant fluid then injecting the virus into the plant. This virus has very wide host range, including tomato, pepper, potato, tobacco, lettuce and many other plants. Small, brown spots will show up on the leaves of the tomato first and we generally ignore them as they seem common to most vegetable plants. Ultimately, the spots turn brown then the whole leaf will die and droop or wilt on the stem. If you are scouting the green tomato fruit, you may see the next symptom which will be rings of yellow or brown with a lighter green color. Once the fruit turns red, the rings will be dark brown. Some successful cultural controls: use highly reflective UV mulch (metalized mulch) around tomatoes; control weeds in and around tomato or pepper fields; do not plant tomatoes and peppers near TSWV susceptible crops such as peanut or tobacco.
A: The directions on the bag should address this for you, so when in doubt always refer to the label. But here is a good rule: apply 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet between two feedings in early spring (March – April). Apply an additional 1 to 2 pounds of balanced fertilizer per 100 square feet once buds form and continue every four weeks until mid-August. One (1) cup of garden fertilizer weighs about ½ pound therefore for 1 pound of fertilizer you will need 2 cups; for 2 pounds of fertilizer measure out 4 cups of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. It is important to remember the amounts listed above are NOT per rose plant but instead for a whole bed of roses. To determine the total square feet of the rose bed you will need to multiply the length of one side of the bed times the width of the other side. Remember when your math teacher told you arithmetic was important? Well, here you see it in action. One other helpful hint – it is always better to err on the side of less fertilizer rather than more especially as we get an increase in disease and insect feeding in the summer months. So please be judicious in applying fertilizer in warm weather.
A: Interesting question. Although we know hydrangea flowers can change color by the soil pH we know agapanthus flower color is not subject to variation regarding soil pH. There are specific instances where variegated cultivars of shrubs, such as Chinese privet, Ligustrum sinense ‘Varigata’, may revert to the solid color invasive parent. But I have not heard of purple agapanthus flowers altering its color. However, I do know the purple cultivars are not as cold hardy as the white variety. I believe you told me yours were growing in pots which made them slightly more susceptible to any cold temperatures. It may well be the purple varieties did not survive our unseasonably cold snap this late spring whereas the white ones have reproduced and thrived.
A: The real cause of the issue is Weeping ficus thrips, Gynaikothrips uzeli. The thrips feed on expanding leaves causing purplish red spots on the lower leaf surface. The leaves become curled and galled, and prematurely drop. Treatments must be applied to protect leaves while they are expanding. Once damage has occurred and populations are developing in tightly curled leaves, adequate coverage with insecticides is extremely difficult. There are no specific recommendations for this thrips, however, pesticide recommendations for other types of thrips feeding on ornamental plants may work. Some research suggests drenching with dinotefuran (Safari) or acephate (Orthene) provided good control but I realize you are reluctant since you have a toddler and want to reduce any pesticide exposure to the child. Tip pruning of infested plants will remove the food source of the thrips in addition to any thrips and eggs present on these new shoots. These thrips are commonly preyed upon by a predatory bug, which many times causes the populations of thrips to drop. However, your plant is enclosed in a patio and will have little chance of getting a predatory insect. You may continue to treat it but you might consider removing the plant and throwing it away. If you decide to destroy the plant, consider placing it in a large lawn bag and tossing it in the garbage. I would not allow other landscape plants to be exposed to this pest. This information comes directly from the UF/IFAS Tropical Research and Education Center.
A: These are some of the easiest insects to identify because of their beautiful coloration. Harlequin Bug, Murgantia histrionica, is an important insect pest of cabbage and similar crops in the southern half of the United States. Harlequin bugs can destroy the entire crop if not managed properly. This insect is classified as a piercing/sucking insect because it sucks the plant’s vascular tissue fluid. The removal of the fluid from the plant causes it to wilt, turn brown and ultimately die. Plants commonly attacked by the harlequin bug include crucifers such as horseradish, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, mustard, Brussels sprouts, turnip, kohlrabi, and radish. In the absence of these favorite hosts, tomato, potato, eggplant, okra, bean, asparagus, beet, weeds, fruit trees, and field crops may be eaten. Hand-picking and destroying the insect pests and egg masses may make a difference especially if small numbers of insects are detected. The easiest and most effective control of harlequin bugs is to hand remove them in the fall and spring before they have a chance to lay eggs. Chemical control can be accomplished by using insecticidal soap (not dish soap) on the young nymphs. Apply insecticidal soaps in early morning, before the bugs are active, to maximize effectiveness. Do not use neonicotinoid insecticides or broad spectrum insecticides as they can harm our important bee populations. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in152
A: I am hoping to have some Bamboo muhly, Muhlenbergia dumosa, at the Master Gardener plant sale on May 13. Bamboo muhly blends the look of bamboo with the easy versatility of an ornamental grass. With its billowy, light green foliage, bamboo muhly can anchor a perennial bed, serve as a screen, or give height to a container planting. The upright or arching stems can reach four to six feet tall, and the plant can reach up to five feet wide as the clump slowly spreads. Be sure to allow for the necessary spacing. Bamboo muhly is native to Arizona and northwestern Mexico and is somewhat drought tolerant, once the plant is established. This means it should not be planted under the eaves of houses if the eaves have no gutters. Bamboo muhly is usually evergreen, though the foliage will likely die back if the plant is exposed to freezing temperatures. If this happens, prune back the brown foliage just before growth starts in the spring. Older canes of bamboo muhly can also be removed periodically to give the plant a fresh look and to encourage new growth. It was one of the 2010 Florida Plants of the Year.
A: Moso bamboo is a close relative of golden bamboo. Moso is the largest temperate bamboo, reaching heights of over 75 feet and with 5 inch diameter shoots. Two scientific names ‐ Phyllostachys pubescens and Phyllostachys edulis ‐ are currently used as scientific names for moso bamboo. Bamboo shoots emerge from horizontal underground stems called rhizomes. These rhizomes generally grow within the first 12 inches of soil. The real problem with this type of rhizome is it can spread or run outward 20 to 30 feet before sprouting. In addition, the rhizomes can run in all directions from the original shoot. This can become a weedy problem by growing in areas far from the original site – namely neighbor’s yards. We always recommend using clumping bamboo rather than running bamboo for that very reason.